February opening eyed for duck-rabbit coffee in Duck Island

Calvin Verga, founder of duck-rabbit coffee, has very specific standards when it comes to pouring a proper cuppa, starting with where the beans are grown.

"We roast in such a way to highlight all the different characteristics," says Verga, adding that a good cup of coffee is defined by its origin. He tags berry, currant and grape notes in coffee from Kenya, Rwanda and Burundi; citrus and floral flavors from Ethiopian beans and rustic earthy notes in those from Sumatra. Unlike the more common dark roasted beans, a delicate light roast brings out those nuanced flavors.

"When you roast light in order to highlight those origin-specific characteristics, you need a phenomenal coffee. Any sorts of defects in the coffee will show in clean cup. It's imperative that our coffee is of the highest standard," says Verga.

He launched duck-rabbit in 2014 as a bean-roasting venture and sold his product wholesale. Verga's coffee was heretofore available only at a handful of locations such as Root Café in Lakewood.

As early as February 1st however, Verga will be offering his high-end brew at an emerging storefront at 2135 Columbus Road in Duck Island. The coffee house will be part of the Forest City Brewery project, which is also slated to include a meadery and brewery and is currently home to the quirky Cleveland Cycle Tours operation, with its two 15-seat bikes.

duck-rabbit will occupy an 800-square-foot space and will employ about five, with both part- and full-time positions. Verga tentatively plans to have about a dozen seats. Hours will be 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday and 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Not surprisingly, the menu will be Spartan in order to showcase Verga's painstakingly chosen and roasted beans, with the star being pour-overs. He'll also sell roasted beans and some brewing equipment. A deep respect for coffee, where it comes from and how it's processed comes free with every purchase.

"We'd like people to really get into coffee in a close personal way and be able to replicate/brew great coffee at home," says Verga, adding that he hopes to host workshops in the future.

Verga will offer some espresso drinks, including macchiatos, cappuccinos and lattes. As for sugary flavored syrups and cups topped with clouds of whipped cream, they will not be found at duck-rabbit.

"The main focus is the coffee going into the drinks," says Verga, who also concedes, "mocha is one thing I could see possibly on the menu at some time." He does, however, plan to offer a very limited selection of small bites such as French macaroons or madeleines, which he will source off-site. 

"No details on that yet," says Verga.

While construction hums along, Verga has taken delivery on a high-end La Marzocco espresso machine and is roasting beans in a unique vintage German Probat machine, which he chose as carefully as the beans he puts in it.

"When you're roasting on this," says Verga as he displays the Probat, "there are no computer programs. It's full sensory engagement by the roaster." Hence, success requires experience and a honed sensitivity regarding the sight and smell of the beans, all of which is married with timing and temperature.

Verga, a Lakewood native, was in the San Francisco Bay area when he became engaged in the world of high-end coffee while immersed in academics. He eventually opted for joe over the lecture hall and after he "cut his teeth" in the coffee business on the west coast and established a network, he returned to Cleveland to launch duck-rabbit.

"It felt like a great time to come back to Cleveland," says Verga. "That sentiment has really been reinforced since I came back. There is a good energy in Cleveland these days."

Since Freshwater reported on the Forest City Brewery project last April, partners Matt Mapus, Jay Demagall and Cory Miller have realized their funding package, which now includes a Vacant Properties Initiative grant from the City of Cleveland. Mapus reports that the rental space for Western Reserve Meadery will be ready by February 1st and that Forest City Brewery will be offering up beer by this Saint Patrick's Day.

Erin O'Brien
Erin O'Brien

About the Author: Erin O'Brien

Erin O'Brien's eclectic features and essays have appeared in the New York Times, the Los Angeles Times, the Cleveland Plain Dealer and others. The sixth generation northeast Ohioan is also author of The Irish Hungarian Guide to the Domestic Arts. Visit erinobrien.us for complete profile information.