Local Food Economy

columbus news crew road trips to cleveland
In an ABC 6 report titled “Road Trippin #3: Cleveland,” Columbus reporter Ashley Yore headed north on I-71 to Cleveland to explore our city’s $2 billion worth of new tourism related developments and improvements.
 
“According to Cleveland representatives, most of the improvements are on the East 4th Street, one of the city’s entertainment districts. Some of the projects include a new casino, a museum of contemporary art and a new aquarium. In addition, The National Senior Games are coming to the city on July 19, as well as “The Rolling Stone: 50 years of Satisfaction,” an interactive exhibit at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.”
 
Other stops along the route included Melt Bar and Grilled, The Western Reserve Historical Society, and the Great Lakes Science Center.
 
The full story and a video broadcast of the report are available here.

welcome to willeyville: fine dining reinvented in heart of the flats
The Willeyville is named after John Willey, the first mayor of Cleveland, who reputedly demolished a portion of the first bridge to Ohio City to keep a steady stream of business pouring into the Flats. In those bygone days, the area actually was nicknamed "Willeyville" because of the mayor's practice of protecting it.

The new restaurant, which opened at W. 10th and Front streets in the Flats, is a bridge to the city's past and future. With elegant, creative fare served in a lovely setting, Willeyville reminds one why he or she came to the Flats in the first place. It aims to raise the bar on the city's food scene without breaking bank accounts along the way.

"The concept has always been old-school cocktails and everything from scratch," says Christopher DiLisi, a restaurant veteran who has worked at the Baricelli Inn and Flour and waited two years to open Willeyville with his wife, Kristi. "I don't want to be a special occasion place; I want to be a place you go all the time. It's just more fun. Fine dining's not dead -- this is fine dining. It's just changed."

Willeyville, which seats 86 inside and 32 on its corner patio, is a beautiful space with concrete floors, large windows and a lofty ceiling. Homey touches like wood tables crafted from reclaimed lumber by A Piece of Cleveland and comfy benches upholstered in faux leather add warmth. The walls are painted an attractive shade of orange and the open kitchen thrusts into the dining room like a theatrical stage.

A few menu standouts include the "duck mic muffin" (duck sausage and an over-easy egg in a homemade muffin); the adobo shrimp in house-made tortillas (made of whole grain corn soaked in lime); and the Ohio-raised, grass-fed hangar steak.

DiLisi already has been doing 110 covers per lunch, he reports -- and that's despite the challenging parking situation. Options currently include a dozen free spaces, a paid lot or the Aloft Hotel garage. DiLisi hopes to work out more options down the road.

He is confident about Flats East, which will celebrate the opening of Lago restaurant next week. "This will always be a restaurant-bar, not just a bar that serves food. The Flats used to be party central, but now the developers are focused on getting a great mix."

As for the name, he's second-guessing it. "In retrospect, after paying for the sign, I wish it didn't have so many letters," DiLisi quips. "Maybe it should have been 'W.'"


Source: Christopher DiLisi
Writer: Lee Chilcote
nighttown opens two new patios in time for summer event season
The jazz institution Nighttown has opened two new patios -- one for people and the other for people accompanied by their four-legged friends -- at its home on Cedar Road in Cleveland Heights. They're not what you might expect: Unlike the traditional look of the restaurant's interior, the patios are very contemporary.

"The whole back of the building is basically a patio complex," says owner Brendan Ring. "We created two side-by-side patios, one enclosed with stone from Missouri, and kind of wrapped the whole back of the building in a modern metal material. They will remind you of being in SoHo or maybe some cool place in Tremont."

The enclosed, 1,400-square-foot patio for people has a heated, stamped concrete floor that's built to resemble wood planks, bioethanol fireplaces and a small bar. Sliding glass panels will ensure that it can be used year-round. The 900-square-foot dog-friendly patio is where the singles like to hang out, Ring says.

"Especially in Cleveland Heights, everyone has a dog. Young people have a martini or smoke there. 'I've got a dog, you got a dog, we've got something to talk about.'"

The impetus for the patios came last year when Ring looked at the books and realized that his existing outdoor space was booked every Friday and Saturday night for months on end. "I kind of went, 'Holy shit, we have no place to seat regular people on weekends.' We got an architect, designed it and got it up."

Ring says he also built the patios to stand out and compete within Cleveland's increasingly vibrant foodie scene -- and of course, having a killer patio helps. "Audiences have gotten bigger in this town, but there are more stages, too."


Source: Brendan Ring
Writer: Lee Chilcote
award-winning chef proud of his cleveland roots
In an Aspen Times article titled “Hello, Cleveland! Best New Chef Jason Vincent represents hometown,” Stewart Oksenhorn writes that while Cleveland may have its own culinary superstars living and working in the city, it also has some that profess their love for the great city while sharing their talents elsewhere.
 
“Vincent also is a huge fan of his hometown, Cleveland, going so far to call it the greatest city in the country. Vincent is aware that this is a minority opinion. Growing up there, he assumed that no one outside of Cleveland had any idea of what was going on in the city. So Vincent was amazed to learn, in 1998, that a local chef, Michael Symon, who had earned a following at the Caxton Cafe and then opened Lola, was named as one of the best new chefs by Food & Wine magazine.”
 
This year, Vincent joined Symon and Jonathon Sawyer as one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs.
 
“The chefs were maybe the scariest people I’ve ever met. But also kind and patient,” Vincent said. He recalls being chewed out by Shannon for some misdeed. “He said to me, ‘Do you know how big my world is?’ He was telling me I need to use my brain, not use him as a crutch. That statement was really influential.”
 
Read the full story here.

great lakes' efforts to brew 5000-yr-old brew covered by times
In a New York Times feature titled "For Its Latest Beer, a Craft Brewer Chooses an Unlikely Pairing: Archaeology," writer Steven Yaccino covers the efforts by Great Lakes Brewing Co. to replicate a 5,000-year-old Sumerian beer.

"By contemporary standards, it would have been a spoiled batch here at Great Lakes Brewing Company, a craft beer maker based in Ohio, where machinery churns out bottle after bottle of dark porters and pale ales," the article says. "But lately, Great Lakes has been trying to imitate a bygone era. Enlisting the help of archaeologists at the University of Chicago, the company has been trying for more than year to replicate a 5,000-year-old Sumerian beer using only clay vessels and a wooden spoon."

“How can you be in this business and not want to know from where your forefathers came with their formulas and their technology?” co-owner Pat Conway is quoted in the piece.
 
Because no detailed recipes have been found, attempts to recreate it have been based upon cuneiform texts and an ancient poem, Hymn to Ninkasi, that hints at the recipe.
 
Great Lakes has no plans to sell the beer, but rather use it as an educational exercise. The brewing vessels are a popular addition on the guided tours of the brewery, and they intend to showcase the Sumerian beer at events in Cleveland this summer.
 
Read more about the process here.

we live here now: helen qin and jesse mason, owners of mason's creamery
Meet Helen Qin and Jesse Mason, a couple whose love for each other is rivaled only by their love of ice cream. After swapping the West Coast for the North Coast, the two launched Mason's Creamery, an ice cream start-up. Since moving to town, they have found Cleveland to be a city that not only loves ice cream, but that supports small business.
next city leaders ask if cle, other cities can diversify beyond the 'cupcake economy'
Young urbanist leaders who were in Cleveland this week for Next City's annual Vanguard conference were asked a provocative question about this city's future. With new development activity happening in neighborhoods across a city that still is devastatingly poor, how can we do a better job of ensuring that these projects will benefit our poorest residents?

"I'm a little concerned that as we build projects, we're creating a city for yuppies and a city for everyone else," commented Ari Maron of MRN Ltd. in a presentation to 40 leaders from across the U.S. and Canada engaged in fields such as urban planning, entrepreneurship and sustainability. "How many cupcake and yogurt shops can a city sustain?"

Heads nodded and attendees laughed as Maron admitted the challenge was as much to himself as others, since MRN owns three of the city's most prominent new developments, E. Fourth Street in downtown Cleveland, Uptown in University Circle and property along W. 25th in Ohio City.

Several attendees noted that they were surprised by how few of the city's larger developments have translated into prosperity for surrounding neighborhoods. Sitting in the newly-built Museum of Contemporary Art at University Circle, leaders asked how that area's success could benefit its low-income neighbors.

Maron cited the Greater University Circle Initiative and local hiring and procuring efforts by University Hospitals and others. MRN has committed to hiring local residents for its projects, and the company now employs 285 city residents.

"When people from the neighborhood work here, they take ownership of the project because it's their neighborhood," he said, citing DoubleTree Hotel as one example of a University Circle project that employees many local residents.

An attendee from Chicago noted that Cleveland appears to be behind in adding bike-friendly infrastructure. He cited the recent addition of separated bicycle lanes to Surmac Avenue in Chicago as a game-changing project for his city. "Cleveland needs to do one really good pilot project," said the attendee.

Next City is a national nonprofit media organization that organizes the Vanguard conference to highlight best urban practices and develop young urban leaders. Updates from the conference are being posted on Next City's daily blog.


Source: Next City, Ari Maron
Writer: Lee Chilcote
toledo-based pub 'bar 145' on track to open ohio city spot by early 2014
Bar 145, a popular gastropub with locations in Toledo, Kent and soon Columbus, will open its fourth location in the former Grind space on W. 25th Street south of Lorain in Ohio City. The tagline "burgers, bands and bourbon" sums up the pub's concept.

Owner Jeremy Fitzgerald has signed a letter of intent with owner MRN Ltd. and intends to execute a lease and start construction this summer. Bar 145, specializing in chef-driven, foodie fare accented by regular live music, could open sometime early next year.

"Ohio City is so into the food end, but there's not much on the entertainment end," says Fitzgerald. "We make everything from scratch and knew the food concept was perfect. We knew that this would add another dimension to Ohio City."

The 4,100-square-foot venue will feature a full stage with lighting and a professional sound system. The bands will be local as well as regional.

Bar 145 also will have a 2,000-square-foot rooftop patio facing the downtown skyline and another 1,000-square-foot patio on the main level along the side of the building.

Live bands will be featured Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, but Fitzgerald promises five days of entertainment that will include jazz nights and acoustic talent.

Bar 145's menu promises to be in keeping with the neighborhood's local food ethos. "We don't even have a freezer in the restaurant," Fitzgerald says. "All our sauces are from scratch and the mac and cheese and truffle fries are all made to order."


Source: Jeremy Fitzgerald
Writer: Lee Chilcote
bad girl venture grad makes a splash with toast in gordon square
Jillian Davis’ Toast wine bar opened in the Gordon Square Arts District April 15 and her unique take on food, wine and cocktails fits right into the neighborhood. The restaurant/wine bar specializes in doing things a little differently.

“We serve revitalized farm fare, and most of what we serve is locally sourced,” says Davis. “We have wines that are off the beaten path and craft cocktails.” In fact, Toast makes their own tonics for their cocktails, grows some food ingredients on-site and all dinners are served up in small plate fashion. “People like to graze a little more these days,” Davis says.
 
While it took Davis a little while to open Toast’s doors, things are thriving now that she went through the Bad Girl Ventures business plan program and, thanks to the BGV program, won an ECDI loan. “The BGV program was great, I learned a lot,” says Davis. “ECDI was someone BGV put forth as an alternative to the banks. It worked out really well for me. I got money for inventory and equipment. No one will give you money for that stuff.”
 
Davis has hired 10 employees, including chefs, servers and bartenders and hopes to add more staff as Toast grows. “Our chefs are really slaves to the kitchen at this point,” she says. “As we start spreading the word and getting people in the door, we’ll be getting more staff.”
 
Toast has fit right into the neighborhood culture as well. Davis calls Toast’s wine list a bit more “geeky” than other area places, and they are the only restaurant in the area serving small plates.
 
“We all really complement each other; there’s a great synergy in the area,” says Davis. “Our wine selection sets us apart. We’re different than everybody, but we fit in."

 
Source: Jillian Davis
Writer: Karin Connelly
hough entrepreneur set to break ground on first-ever biocellar
Mansfield Frazier, the entrepreneurial mastermind behind the improbable Chateau Hough vineyard at E. 66th and Hough, says he will break ground on the world's first biocellar this year. He's raised more than half of the $100,000 needed to complete the experimental, innovative project.

"This is about growing crops in the wintertime," says Frazier. The biocellar, which has been described as a passive solar greenhouse, will consist of a glass structure built on top of the basement of a demolished  home. "We plan to grow mushrooms because they're $12 a pound, an acre yield higher than anything else. This is about renewing neighborhoods, reusing buildings and creating wealth in the inner city."

"The biocellar is based on two concepts," Frazier explains of the glass-topped structure developed by permaculture designer Jean Loria. "One is a root cellar, which has been around thousands of years, and the other is a greenhouse. It's basically taking a greenhouse structure and putting it on top of a root cellar."

Frazier says that he hopes to break ground in July so that the biocellar will be completed by fall. The two- to three-month build-out will be handled by Don Lasker of ALL Construction, and Frazier will also employ a lot of neighborhood residents and guys from a local halfway house. The biocellar was designed by Arkinetics.

Funding sources include local councilpeople, stormwater management funding from the Northeast Ohio Regional Sewer District and a local angel investor.

"We're budgeting $100,000 for the first one, but hopefully the cost will go down once we know what we're doing," says Frazier. "We know the science is there."


Source: Mansfield Frazier
Writer: Lee Chilcote
forbes takes a sip of cleveland whiskey's novel methods
In a Forbes feature titled “Cleveland Whiskey Ages Bourbon In One Week,” science, technology, and culture writer Alex Knapp explores the unique process Tom Lix developed to bring his product to market.
 
“After making the spirit, a distillery places it into charred, American oak barrels to age. Usually for several years, with premium bourbons often aging for nine years or more,” Knapp writes. “But in Cleveland, Ohio, Tom Lix aims to disrupt the traditional aging process of bourbon. He’s developed a process to accelerate the aging process of whiskey from years into about a week.”
 
While the story does not go into details of the proprietary aging process for obvious reasons, a bare-bones explanation of how it works is revealed.
 
“It definitely does not taste like a young whiskey, a common snark you’ll see at some whiskey tasting websites, where Cleveland Whiskey is seeing plenty of detractors,” Knapp continues.
 
Enjoy the complete feature here.

pets with benefits: how urban chickens are helping to build community
It's been four years since Cleveland began allowing residents to keep chickens and one year for Cleveland Heights. Rather than the chicken-induced apocalypse predicted by some vocal critics, neither city has experienced any significant issues. In fact, chickens are improving communities in unexpected ways.
culinary launch to host business incubator for food entrepreneurs
The Cleveland Culinary Launch and Kitchen and the Economic and Community Development Institute (ECDI) will be hosting a business incubator for food and beverage entrepreneurs this summer. The nine-week program will focus on the specifics of opening a food-related business -- from food safety and nutrition to marketing and product development.

“We’ll really touch on everything to get a business off the ground,” says Emily Sullivan, ECDI Cleveland operations coordinator. “We’re creating a food incubator program. This is a hands-on look at getting a food business started.” Participants also will develop business plans and have opportunities to meet with ECDI managers about securing a loan.
 
This will be a hands-on program, says Carolyn Priemer, general manager of the Culinary Launch. “It’s not going to be a classroom setting,” she explains. “We’re going to be out in the community and in restaurants.”
 
Incubator participants do not need to be Culinary Launch tenants to enroll in the program. However, there is a $200 fee once applicants are accepted. Scholarships will be available. Ten companies will be accepted. Applications will be taken through mid-June, with the program beginning in July.
 
Open for six weeks now, the Culinary Launch has six tenants, ranging from an ice cream maker to caterers to a custard frosting maker. The Launch is a partnership between ECDI, Carolyn and Gordon Priemer of J&M Real Estate, and Tim and Bill Skaryd of Hospitality Marketing and Sales.

 
Sources: Emily Sullivan and Carolyn Priemer
Writer: Karin Connelly
community composting facility could become reality thanks to sustainability grant
San Francisco and Austin offer residential curbside composting, but such forward-thinking green ideas have yet to become a reality in Cleveland. A recently-awarded grant from Enterprise Community Partners, however, will help the Detroit Shoreway Community Development Organization think through how to develop a community composting facility for restaurants in the Cleveland EcoVillage.

Although citywide composting may not be in the cards right now, the pilot project could demonstrate ways to scale up composting in a range of city neighborhoods.

A similar $40,000 grant was also awarded to Burton Bell Carr Inc. to develop a safer streetscape plan for the Kinsman EcoDistrict. Forty percent of area residents do not have a car, and a recent multi-car accident here injured five people. BBC will develop a plan to improve the ability to safely bike and walk on Kinsman.

"Cleveland was the only city in the nation that got two projects funded through this program, which is pretty exciting," says Michelle Mulcahy with Enterprise Community Partners. "These projects are neighborhood-scale sustainability approaches that support the area's ongoing community development work."

Once the plans are finalized, these projects also could become national test cases for how to green cities, furthering Cleveland's reputation as a leader in this area.

Enterprise also recently issued a Request for Proposals to provide funding for a neighborhood-based climate action plan that would become part of a citywide plan.


Source: Michelle Mulcahy, Mark McDermott
Writer: Lee Chilcote
meals on wheels: local food truck scene keeps on rollin'
East, West, North and South -- it's getting easier and easier to score a hot, fresh and delicious meal from a food truck. In just three years' time, the Cleveland food truck scene has zoomed from 0 to 60, with dozens of rigs scattered all over town. Here's a little help finding them.
home of the browns earns praise for stadium food options
agrarian collective goes on the road with mobile cooking school
Kelli Hanley sees the big picture in cooking -- and she wants to teach people the whole concept of it, from sourcing the produce, to understanding what’s in your pantry, to putting a meal on the table. So she started The Agrarian Collective, a mobile cooking school that does just that.

“When I started The Agrarian Collective, I envisioned an Earth-to-table lifestyle school,” she explains. “My approach is around understanding the relationships between your pantry and kitchen table. My classes are not designed to just watch someone cook.”
 
Hanley recently won a $5,000 loan from a private giving circle after participating in the Bad Girl Ventures spring 2013 business plan competition. She’ll use the loan to build her mobile kitchen, with six two-burner cooking stations. Hanley will take the mobile kitchen to farms and farmers markets and other locations around Northeast Ohio.
 
Hanley’s first class will teach people how to make strawberry jam. The class will meet at a Hiram farm. “We’ll have scones and coffee in the morning and then we’ll go out and show how to pick the best berries for making jam,” she says. “We’re really focusing on hands-on technique.”
 
Most of the classes will collaborate with farmers, chefs or tradespeople to teach specific skills. “When you go home you’ll really feel confident that you can put what you learned to use in the kitchen,” says Hanley. She is working with the Cleveland Culinary Launch, chef Karen Small of the Flying Fig and urban farmers to design the classes.
 
“There has been amazing interest,” says Hanley. “People are telling me they can’t wait for my classes. I feel like it’s something that’s really taking off.”

 
Source: Kelli Hanley
Writer: Karin Connelly
sugar plum cake wins competition, looking for permanent home
Jewels Johnson dabbled in a few different career paths before she found her true calling: baked goods. She grew up in Shaker Heights, went off to London, Charlotte, Las Vegas and Chicago before returning to Shaker in 2006 to work as a teacher at Shaker Heights High School.
 
Then, in 2011, armed with her grandmother’s recipe box, Johnson opened Sugar Plum Cake Company. “I’m a self-taught baker; my grandmother taught my mom and my mom taught me,” she says. “My inheritance was a 1937 KitchenAid mixer, the oldest known certified one that still works.”
 
Sugar Plum specializes in custom made cakes, cupcakes and other goodies. Everything is custom made to order. Johnson’s baked goods are so popular she quit her teaching job this year to concentrate on Sugar Plum full-time.
 
“For me, baking was really something to do during the summer,” Johnson says. “But it allowed me to quit my job two years later.” The business has taken off, and customers usually have to order at least a week in advance. Sugar Plum has 600 clients, with more than 400 being repeat customers. Johnson reports that sales have increased by at least 50 percent per quarter.
 
Earlier this month, Sugar Plum Cake Company was named the grand prize winner of the Spring 2013 Bad Girl Ventures Business Plan Competition. Johnson received a $25,000 loan to grow her business.
 
Johnson recently teamed up with Fresh Fork Market to develop a line of baking mixes using locally sourced flour and natural sweeteners, called Devour! Gourmet Baking Mixes. The line features a variety of cake, brownie, pancake and bread mixes. The line is available through Fresh Fork Market and Sugar Plum. Johnson is working with some additional retail sites to carry the Devour! line.
 
Johnson in the in the process of looking for a permanent location, where she intends to offer pop-up space for local artists while selling her cakes. She employs seasonal workers during peak times to help with deliveries and plans to hire three permanent employees this year to help with the Devour! production.

 
Source: Jewels Johnson
Writer: Karin Connelly
signs of life: a slideshow of great bar and grill signs
A great sign does more than announce a business name and brand; it welcomes all who see it into the establishment. Fresh Water photographer Bob Perkoski has a soft spot for attractive bar and restaurant signs, and here's a slideshow of some of his favorites.
new york times covers rust belt food revival
In a thoughtful piece on farm-to-table cooking in the Rust Belt, New York Times writer Julia Moskin covers the mutually beneficial relationships between farmers and chefs that has helped boost our region's image from dead zone to world-class food destination.
 
"Until recently, the American food revolution seemed to bypass this region, leaping from Chicago to Philadelphia without making stops in places like Toledo, Cleveland, Akron and Pittsburgh," Moskin writes. "Now, the region is linked by a group of educated, ambitious chefs who are building a new kind of network."
 
Greenhouse Tavern chef-owner Jonathon Sawyer is singled out for fostering relationships with area farmers -- specifically those growing in the Cuyahoga Valley National Park as part of the Countryside Initiative.
 
"Convinced that the relationship between chefs and farmers is one of the keys to bringing the city and the region back to life, Mr. Sawyer has cooked and coaxed a new local food system into being."
 
Read the rest of the tasty news here.